A 2-1 buydown feels great in year one. Year three is the payment you actually signed up for. The same goes for an ARM when it resets. This tool shows your monthly payment in every phase and the exact dollar jump when the temporary rate goes away, so you qualify yourself against the real number, not the teaser.
| Phase | Rate | Monthly P&I |
|---|
Builders lean on buydowns when rates are high because a low first-year payment sells homes. A 2-1 buydown drops your rate 2 points in year one and 1 point in year two, then snaps to the full note rate in year three. The loan amortizes at the note rate the entire time, so nothing about your debt actually got cheaper. A lump sum sits in escrow and covers the gap between the teaser payment and the real payment. When that fund runs dry, your payment jumps to the number you were always going to pay.
That jump is the whole point of this tool. The mistake is qualifying yourself on the year-one payment, the one the builder advertises, and discovering the year-three payment is several hundred dollars higher than you budgeted. Enter your loan and note rate above and the calculator shows every phase plus the exact dollar increase at reset. If the permanent payment is comfortable, the buydown is a nice head start. If it is not, the buydown is hiding a home you cannot afford yet.
Each phase payment is a standard amortization of your full loan amount over the full term, just at that phase's rate. Year one of a 2-1 uses your note rate minus 2 points, year two minus 1 point, year three and beyond the note rate itself. The shock is the difference between the final payment and the last discounted payment. The total subsidy is the sum of every monthly discount across the buydown period, which is what the builder or seller pays into escrow. We compute it all from your numbers, so there is nothing to look up and nothing assumed.
Switch the scenario to ARM reset and the tool fixes your start rate for the intro period, then re-amortizes your remaining balance over the remaining term at the reset rate you enter. Use your fully indexed rate (index plus margin) for a realistic estimate, or a higher stress-test rate to see the worst case. The reset payment is what you owe after the adjustment, and the shock is the jump from your intro payment. If rates rose since you locked, this is where it shows up.
These figures are principal and interest only. Your actual monthly housing cost in Florida also carries property tax, homeowners insurance, flood insurance where required, and any HOA or CDD fees, which together often rival the loan payment itself. Pair this with the mortgage payment calculator, your county property tax page, the insurance savings calculator, and the CDD and carrying cost calculator to see the full number.
Disclaimer: This calculator estimates principal and interest using standard mortgage amortization on the inputs you provide. It does not include property tax, insurance, HOA or CDD fees, PMI, or closing costs, and it is not a loan offer, a rate quote, or financial advice. Buydown structures and ARM terms vary by lender; confirm the exact terms, caps, and index with your loan officer. Momentum Realty is a licensed real estate brokerage, not a mortgage lender.
Talk to Jon or Brittany before you sign. We will pencil out the real year-three payment with taxes and insurance on the specific home, and tell you straight whether the price holds up.
Talk to founders →